Mt Nyu (ニュウ)

18 October 2024
Mt Nyu (ニュウ)

I recently took a trip out to Nagano’s Mt Nyu (ニュウ), which is located in the northern part of the Yatsugadake Mountains. Unlike most of the other mountains I’ve been climbing recently, Nyu is not a 100 Famous Mountain or on any sort of major hiking list.

Instead, it is most famous for the deep-fried bread rolls sold at the Takami-ishi Mountain Cabin (高見石山小屋) partway up the trail.

Shirokoma Pond trailhead
The trail starts off next to Shirokoma Pond.
Boardwalk on trail

After seeing the bread rolls all over my YAMAP feed last year, I knew I wanted to make the pilgrimage out at some point. Takami-ishi is either near the start or end of the trail, depending on which direction you take the loop course. Since I didn’t want any chance of the pastries selling out, we opted to stop at the hut first, which is a quick 40 minute hike up from the trailhead.

Front of the Takami-ishi mountain cabin
The front of the Takami-ishi mountain cabin.

What I didn’t take into account is that the hut doesn’t start selling its bread until 10am. Luckily we started our hike pretty late today, and so we only had to wait for about 20 minutes until we got to place our order.

We weren’t the only ones lining up, and there were at least 10 to 15 people around the hut’s opening time. It was quite popular!

Takami-ishi mountain cabin's order counter
The order counter at Takami-ishi.

The rolls were well worth the hype. They came in 5 flavours: cheese, kinako, matcha, chocolate and sesame. My personal favourites were the cheese and sesame. I had skipped breakfast today, and I’m glad I did because the pastries really filled me up.

Two plates of five deep-fried bread rolls, all different colours, plus a coffee
The famous deep-fried bread.

We even got a visitor - a spotted nutcracker (or ホシガラス, hoshi-garasu). Birds in the mountains are usually quite shy, but this guy had obviously been fed before, as he was quite happy to pose for photos on the fence of the hut.

A spotted nutcracker on the cabin's fence.
The spotted nutcracker.
The bird striking a pose, looking proud.
Striking a pose for us.
A photo taken of it with its feet off the ground.
I also got a photo of it mid-jump.

Before setting off on the rest of the course, we also climbed Takami-ishi (高見石), which is what the mountain hut takes its name after. It translates to something like “high viewpoint rock”. As the name would suggest, on a clear day you can see out across Yatsugatake and particularly down to Shirokoma Pond. Today it was quite foggy, so there wasn’t much to see.

A sea of rocks on a foggy morning
Climbing up Takami-ishi.
Between the sea of rocks, the red roof of the Takamishi mountain cabin pokes out
You can also get a view of the roof of the mountain cabin from Takami-ishi

With our bellies full, we set out for the rest of our hike. To be honest, you could totally descend back to the trailhead at this point - it’s not like you have to climb Nyu to be able to buy the pastries. But Nyu definitely has a strong association with the deep-fried pastries, since it’s the highest mountain in the area, and people tend to do it as a set since it’s a nice loop course.

The hiking trail, with lots of trees, moss and rocks
The trail with a dirt path interspersed with some rounded rocks

After another 45 minutes, we passed by the peak of Mt Naka (中山, naka-yama). Five minutes before reaching the peak itself, you also pass the Mt Naka viewpoint (中山展望台), which is another opportunity to get some views (weather permitting).

The signpost for Mt Naka viewpoint, staked in the ground at an angle.
The Mt Naka viewpoint (中山展望台).
Sea of rocks and small pine shrubs
The viewpoint was very rocky.
Mt Naka's peak marker
The peak marker for Mt Naka. It's amongst some trees so there's not actually much to see here.

Onwards from Mt Naka, you get to descend a bit before climbing to Mt Nyu.

The trail downwards, in between some low-lying shrubs.

As you approach, you can see the summit of Mt Nyu poking out.

Mt Nyuu's peak visible as a rocky outcrop in the distance.
The peak of Mt Nyu. I'm not sure if that's a person or a small tree poking out at the summit.

Due to some light rain and fog, unfortunately there was not much to see at the peak of Mt Nyu itself. So I snapped a quick photo, and then we were on our way back down to the trailhead.

A small peak marker for Mt Nyu, nestled in between some rocks
The summit of Mt Nyu, elevation 2352m
A slightly foggy descent amongst lots of rocks and tree roots.
A thin boardwalk over some grass.

Near the trailhead is Shirokoma Pond (白駒池). It looked very atmospheric due to the fog. I actually camped here on an overnight hiking trip last year, but that’s a story for another post!

Shirokoma lake, with fog rolling on the surface

Nyu is a one of the lower mountains in the Yatsugatake Mountains, compared to the highest peak of Mt Aka (赤岳), which comes in at 2899m. The loop course is not too long either, so I think it makes for a nice, beginner-friendly introduction to Yatsugatake.

Hiking course details

Date climbedLengthCourse time
2024-09-297.9km4h25min (the expected time for an average hiker without breaks)

This is a loop course starting and ending at the Shirokoma-ike trailhead (白駒池入口). After first passing the Takami-ishi mountain cabin (高見石小屋), you’ll hike up to Mt Naka (中山), before finally reaching Mt Nyu (ニュウ) and then descending back down to Shirakoma Pond (白駒池).

Public transportation access

With public transport, coming to Mt Nyu is possible as a day trip from Tokyo. It will require a train and a bus. Your options are either:

Instead of getting off at the Shirokoma-ike trailhead, you can also get off one bus stop later at Mugikusa Pass (麦草峠, mugikusa-toge). There’s an example of someone doing this course via public transport at Yamareco.

Car access details

Car parkTime (from Tokyo)Round trip cost
Shirokomanoike Iriguchi Parking Lot (白駒の池入口)3h30min~13200 yen

The carpark costs 600 yen. We had no problem finding a spot when we arrived just before 9am on a weekend.

The cars at the Shirokomaike Parking lot
The 600 yen parking ticket, with a green furry ball for a mascot charcter.
The parking ticket has a very cute mascot character.

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